A Little Smoke Never Stopped a Good Time 

Grand Teton National Park

As I drive towards Grand Teton National Park in Wyoming, my excitement is building. South Dakota and Minnesota had been wonderful (generally), but let’s be honest: this is where the trip really gets going. A beautiful drive through Bighorn National Forest that morning only adds to the anticipation. 

First view of the Tetons

The father west I go, I start to realize that smoke is going to be a factor to contend with. It’s sadly been among the worst wildfire seasons on record throughout the West, and apparently smoke had been a problem all summer in the Tetons, drifting from the still-raging fires in California and Idaho.

Nevertheless, the haze created quite a dramatic experience as I drove closer and closer. I kept checking the GPS, 20 miles away, 15 miles away, 12 miles away. Still, no view of the mountain range. I’m driving on an open road, and as I would come to know, the things are imposing and should be viewable from far away.

I’m starting to question whether I have the right location, or maybe the GPS is buggin. But as I approach 10 miles to the destination my questions vanish and I let out an involuntary short gasp. Is that them?? It’s so hazy it’s hard to tell. I drive closer, transfixed on the striking landscape that is coming into focus. Yes, it was the iconic Teton mountain range, and I’ll admit it made me a bit emotional.

I’m arriving Sunday afternoon of Labor Day weekend, which complicates the typically simple process of finding a free campsite. The first campground I check out only has one site open, and it’s really a bit of an eyesore. But the RV next to me says there is another one down the road, too bumpy/steep for their rig to get up. This has 27 dispersed sites, and I start to worry as I maneuver up the mountain and see filled site after filled site. 

I get to site 25, already starting to form a backup plan, but hold up. This is a massive plot, and there are only 2 tents at one end of it. Usually these sites are designated for one party, but this has multiple firepits and space for lots more cars/people. So I set up shop, far enough away from the rest of the group, and plan to double check they’re cool with it when they get back. It’s 5 pm so my day is done. As it turns out, there are 3 separate groups who had only met each other that weekend, and of course they’re cool with it.

This spot ends up being my favorite yet. It’s close to the park, but so high up that it affords a sweet view of the mountains. I mean, how can you complain about camping for free and waking up to this.

My campsite at sunset

A stop on my bike shuttle

I jam-pack the next day with activity. I’m in the park by 10 am, and off on a bike ride shortly after, looping around Grand Teton Road and the Jenny Lake scenic road (shared by vehicles and bikes). The smoke is abstructing much of the view, but as I turn and start heading towards the mountains, I can finally start to make out the details. They're truly astonishing up close, different but equally awesome as they were far away. I stop many times to get up close on the crystal-clear lakes. I’m soaking it all in, and I end up spending hours on this “bike ride” which is really more of a bike shuttle.

After I arrive back at my car, I do it all again, by car this time. I found a great spot on my bike journey, down on the rocks of Jenny Lake, secluded in an otherwise bustling Labor Day crowd. I’m beat and need to give my feet a break, so I take lunch, a couple beverages, and a book down to a nice comfortable rock that I call home for the rest of the day. I’ve worked up a sweat, and the water is ice cold, so the time for a Bronny bath is never better.

The rest of the day I drive around the rest of the southern end of the park. I end the day going up to the peak of Signal Mountain, which was beautiful but I can only imagine would be marvelous without as much smoke. 

I go to sleep that night hoping the smoke clears a bit tomorrow; it doesn’t. Bit of a bummer, but I take the opportunity to hit town to run some errands.

I was planning on spending one more day at Grand Teton, but this last day I wake up and realize the smoke is yet worse than it has been the past 2 days. Time to call an audible. Yellowstone is just north of the park, and what ends up being my first campground – Lewis Lake – is just north of the border. I decide to cut Teton short to start Yellowstone, and come back to do the last hike I really wanted to do in a couple days, if the smoke clears.

This ends up being an excellent decision. Yellowstone is vast, and a head start on exploring it is just what I needed. I even manage to come back 2 days later when the smoke finally clears, and have an amazing hike to Inspiration Point and Cascade Canyon. I even have a chance to revisit some of the viewpoints to get a better view than the first time.

Cascade Canyon

The Teton mountain range is a sight to behold, something that’s bound to amaze most who lay eyes upon it. While there was plenty for me to do, there are also plenty of longer hikes or backpacking journeys that I’m not able to do but sound stunning.

Snake River Overlook, after the smoke cleared

From here it’s on to Yellowstone, which I explore through superlatives in my next post!

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String Lake

Another view of Cascade Canyon

View of the Tetons from Moose